Mumbai: World Monuments Fund India (WMFI) has completed the restoration of the 165-year Afghan War Memorial Church in Mumbai. It will be opened for general public following the handover ceremony scheduled on March 3, 2024. WMFI undertook the restoration of the war memorial church in Colaba, Mumbai in collaboration with the Afghan Church’s Pastorate Committee & Custodian with funding support from Citi. The restoration project commenced in March 2022 and has been completed in a record time of 24 months.
The Church of St John the Evangelist, commonly known as the Afghan Church, is an Anglican structure. The building and its setting acts as a great touchstone of the early settlement of Mumbai. Affiliated with the Mumbai Diocese of the Church of North India, this exemplar of Gothic architecture, designated as a Grade I heritage structure, was constructed between 1847 and 1858. Initially conceived as a Garrison Church, it once earned the moniker ‘Bride’s Church.’ Designed by Henry Conybeare, the Afghan Church commemorates various regiments, including the Bombay Army, the Madras Army, the Bengal Army, and H.M’s army, and other regiments who fought in the First Anglo-Afghan War I (1838- 1940) & Second Anglo-Afghan War II (1878-1880).
The Afghan Church was built on land designated by the British Govt to honour the overwhelming loss of lives of 4,500 soldiers and 12,000 of their camp followers in these wars. William Brydon, an assistant surgeon in the army, turned out to be the sole survivor on the British side or so it was recorded at the time. During the course of this project it was recognised that the thousands of Indians who would have gone to war for the “Company” had never been known. A plaque installed today recognises the officers and men who died in these wars, undoubtedly a very large number of them Indian.
World Monuments Fund India, through its expert Conservation Consultant Kirtida Unwalla drew up a comprehensive conservation plan. Citi provided the complete funding to plan and execute the restoration of the Church. The Church’s intrinsic value lies in its memorial tablets and emblematic stained-glass windows. It was constructed using locally available buff-coloured basalt and limestone; the gothic arches of the doorway and the splendid spire showcase classic Gothic design, contributing significantly to Mumbai’s famed Gothic architectural heritage. The War Memorials in the Altar, Chancel, Main vestibule, the landscape and even the flags within the caskets are commemorative of the historical event and have a deep and profound value.
According to Amita Baig, Executive Director of World Monuments Fund India, “The restoration of the Afghan Church marks the end of a thirty plus year quest by experts and heritage aficionados’ to raise awareness for the value of this early Gothic building. Its restoration is enormously satisfying and hopefully returns the Afghan Church to its rightful place in Mumbai city’s heritage map. It is notable that the restoration project was executed without interrupting the Church services during the last two years. We remain deeply grateful to Citi for their enduring partnership.”
According to Sangita Jindal, Chairperson of JSW Foundation and Board Member of World Monuments Fund India, “The Afghan Church is a remarkable gem in India’s ecclesiastical architecture, serving as a guiding beacon for ships entering Bombay Harbour. Despite its status as a Grade I Heritage site, obtaining governmental or special grants proved challenging due to its religious nature. Thanks to the World Monuments Fund’s intervention, restoration efforts are underway, preserving its historical significance. Recognizing the Afghan Church’s architectural brilliance and its role as a poignant war memorial is crucial on a national scale. This restoration project sparks renewed interest in conserving India’s cultural heritage. I am confident that the newly restored church will reclaim its status as a vibrant social landmark in Mumbai.”
“For us in the Pastorate Committee of the Church, the Bible has been a constant reminder that this house of God urgently needed renovation and repairs. The sheer size of the structure, years of deterioration, the amount of work required and our limited funds, meant we were facing an almost impossible task. As it is stated in the Bible, “The Lord makes everything beautiful in His time” (Eccl 3:1) and after many years of efforts and prayers the Lord opened a window through the World Monuments Fund India Association, who, with funding from Citi India, engaged a highly skilled team of Heritage restoration professionals enabling successful restoration of this magnificent Church to its former glory,” said the Afghan Church Pastorate Committee.
World Monuments Fund India began the Afghan Church’s restoration in March 2022 through a comprehensive assessment of the monument’s structural integrity. The restoration plan included holistic resolution of weathering impact on the monument, restoration of the original stone structure, resolution of salt efflorescence and rampant growth of vegetation on the building. The conservation efforts aimed to rectify these immediate concerns by employing solutions that would ensure the longevity and resilience of the structure against similar issues in the future. The key highlights of the restoration project included:
- Structural Restoration: The construction of the building is made of regionally sourced materials and proven amazingly resilient considering the scale and height. Built in the neo-gothic style, the walls are substantially thick and is dressed with tightly laid Kurla stone and buff-coloured basalt (likely sourced from Jogeshwari-Malad quarries) for the exterior, while the interior is adorned with Porbunder limestone. These different materials were dealt with separately as each demanded select treatment entailing microscopic cleaning and scientific treatment to recover the original colour and aesthetics of the structure.
- Restoration of the Original Roof: The Afghan Church’s roof was restored to its original material including teak timber trusses on stone pilasters. Over the last 100 years, adhoc repairs to the immense roof timbers caused extensive damage. This has now been resolved by replacing wall plates and rafters, scraping structural members, revealing original double wall plates, internal polishing, and restoring timber sprockets to restore the original elements thus ensuring long term resilience and stability.
Restoration of the Bell Tower and Spire: The Bell Tower was once a beacon for ships coming into port. It was first installed at the church in 1865 and stands at an impressive height of 210 feet. The Church’s Spire is adorned with a finial and a Latin Cross, topped by a lightning conductor at the pinnacle. This restoration was undertaken by employing uniquely designed scaffolding for work at heights, meticulous restoration efforts including reversal of inappropriate materials wherever feasible and consolidation of the rest of the fabric that was undertaken to restore the original stone elements and its stone masonry. Often this meant in situ decision-making based on what was revealed at the moment on site.- Restoration of Artefacts: The Afghan Church houses numerous historically significant objects across its interiors. The preservation involved a thorough process encompassing extensive photo documentation, architectural and archival research, technical analysis, structural investigations and condition mapping of the artefacts. This included the Altar, Regiment flags, The flags, standards and pennants were found to be fragile beyond measure. It is an extraordinary fact that the actual flags which were carried during the Second Afghan War are still extant. These have been conserved and extensive research was undertaken to link the regimental colours, pennants and crests. These are now stored and will be shown on special occasions. After consultation with the Afghan Church Committee, it was agreed that replicas would be made which are being showcased as in the original placement
Restoration of the Altar: The Afghan War Memorial Church’s altar is a Medieval Gothic masterpiece. It features a Porbunder limestone altar wall with marble memorial plaques. The restoration of the altar included saturation of the stone with demineralized water and applying a sacrificial clay poultice. Technical studies were undertaken to monitor the amount of salts extracted from the stone. This treatment removed immediate risk of further deterioration.- Restoration of Standards: During the Second Afghan War, British and Indian troops carried pairs of standards known as “colours” — one “Queen’s Colour” and one “Regimental Colour.” These flags, from the XIII, XIX, and XXIV Bombay Native Infantry, were displayed in vertical glass cases in the church’s vestibule. The flag designs were restored after straightening the fabrics according to the design outline, each section of the flags was measured and arranged according to recommended ratios based on archival research. This guided their meticulous restoration, with textile fragments salvaged, laid out on a schematic diagram, and carefully preserved between fine net and cotton fabric. Trims and tassels were consolidated, and the colours mounted flat, with replicas installed on original poles. Visitors can now appreciate the original banners’ appearance, and researchers study the preserved fragments in bespoke storage cases.
- Restoration of the Bells: Sir Charles Gayzer of Gartmore, Perthshire, generously gifted a set of eight bells in 1903 to commemorate his wedding. Crafted by John Taylor & Co., Loughborough, these bells were meant for full-circle ringing and Ellacombe chiming. Despite being recognized as the best in western India, alterations and inappropriate fittings prevented full-circle ringing. The Restoration of the eight bells replete focused on reinstating the original design of the supporting structure and preserving the unique sounds of these historic bells.
- Reconstruction of the Porch: The original construction of the Porch dates back to 1865 when it was erected under the patronage of Chaplain Rex Maule. Comprising stone masonry adorned with pointed arches supporting its flat roof, the Porch suffered extensive deterioration over time, evident in the decayed timber joists and ‘ladi-coba’ flooring laid in cement, leading to water leakage issues. The meticulous reconstruction of the Porch was undertaken and involved the dismantling and re-laying of the roof slab using lime, along with the repair of the spoiled timber joists. Additionally, the precarious stone parapet was meticulously reassembled, piece by piece, to ensure its stability.
- Restoration of the Pulpit: The freestanding Porbunder stone pulpit, featuring six arches and a circular platform with encaustic tiles, underwent meticulous restoration. Issues like cracks, corroded dowel joints, and broken elements were addressed. Each component was carefully documented and dismantled. Corroded elements were removed, gaps were consolidated and missing sections were restored with original stones material. The pulpit was then reassembled with a bespoke framework to ensure perfect alignment to enhance its overall stability. This thorough restoration preserved the historic pulpit’s integrity and aesthetic value.
- Restoration of the Baptism Font: The baptismal font, a vital Christian initiation element, initially placed below the Philip Anderson window, was later moved to the main vestibule area post-1858. This eight-faceted stone structure with a wooden dome-shaped cover underwent careful restoration. The wooden surface’s pigmented overcoats were removed, revealing the original wood colour. Rusty pins were treated, worn-out wooden pieces were remade, and the underside received a combination of mechanical and solvent treatments, with a finishing of natural lacquer coating similar to the original.
- Restoration of the Metal Screen: Installed in 1865-66, the metal screen between the vestibule and nave, was crafted by renowned metalworker Mr. Higgins, who was part of the School of Art in Bombay. In 1903, the Chancel screen, a wrought iron and copper masterpiece, was added to honour 12 soldiers. The inscription below the step into the chancel lists the names of the donors and the names of the soldiers in whose memory the chancel screen was erected. During restoration, surface grime was carefully removed to reveal polychromy and copper floral decorations. Missing copper elements were recreated, refitted, and surfaces were repainted, restoring the historic screen’s details.
- Restoration of Stone Memorial Plaques (Entrance Vestibule): A series of nine stone arches adorn the wall above the main entrance of the Church. In 1882, Rev. (later Archdeacon) C.F.H. Johnston decided to include memorials for those who died in the Second Afghan War of 1880-1882. The stone surfaces and delicate lettering underwent a cleaning process using mildly alkaline solvent to recover the original colours.
- Reconstruction of the Mosaic Wall: Until 1882, the three arched sections of the wall behind the Altar remained bare, as it seems it was originally planned to lead to another chamber. On May 26, 1882, a memorial of the 19th Regiment Bombay Native Infantry arrived from England, and was installed in the arches behind the Altar closing any future possibility of a chamber. The design with floral elements in a geometrical pattern extends from the floor to the base of the memorial slabs. During restoration, damage to this was arrested in a minimally invasive manner. Surface deposits and stains were removed using a combination of physical cleaning with some solvent action to preserve of the sur face texture and tones to ensure it merges perfectly and maintains consistency with the surrounding unstained areas.
- Restoration of Metal Plaques: In the church vestibule, thirteen brass memorial plaques exhibited signs of corrosion. To restore them, layers of grime embedded over time as well as previous darkened surface coats were carefully removed using a combination of solvents and cleaning agents. The process was executed with great care to prevent any damage to the copper alloy surface. Finally, a corrosion inhibition layer was applied to the metal surfaces, followed by a reversible protective coat, ensuring the preservation of the plaques in the future.
Restoration of Brass Lectern: The brass lectern has been placed at the Afghan Church since May 2, 1865, with an eagle atop, symbolising St. John the Evangelist. It underwent restoration due to signs of corrosion and dark residues. Careful cleaning removed darkened surface coats and deposits, preserving the copper alloy surface. Here too a corrosion inhibitor and a protective coat of microcrystalline wax were applied for long-term preservation.- Reconstruction of Plaques in the Sanctuary and the Chancel Flooring: The Chancel floor, completed in 1903, mirrors the 1882 Sanctuary floor with white marble squares within brass communion rails. Larger marble squares beyond the Altar rails honour four officers, and a brass cross in the centre commemorates the Church’s founder, Rev. George Pigott. The marble plaques were cleaned, inscribed and accretions-filled letterings cleared with ultrasonic ablators, and an ‘invisible’ intaglio inscription was rendered visible with careful inpainting with a reversible medium. The brass cross underwent careful cleaning, corrosion inhibition, and received a protective coat of microcrystalline wax.
- Restoration of the Memorial Cross: The Memorial Cross, made from Porbunder stone and situated to the left of the Church, features inscribed marble plaques on each of its four facets. The restoration process began with a thorough recording of weathered surfaces, microbiological growth, stains, chipped areas, previous repairs, and other objective signs of distress on the stone.
Restoration of 150-year-old Stained Glass Windows: The east and the west stained-glass windows (over the altar and entrance respectively) are the legacy of William Wailes, a nineteenth-century stained glass expert. William Wailes, one of England’s most accomplished and visionary stained-glass manufacturers, was renowned for a unique ability to harness bright colour pigments in glass (a difficult feat in the mid-1800s). The main panels on the east and west, with their richly detailed depictions of Biblical scenes were manufactured in Britain and shipped to India via a long and arduous sea route. After over 150 years of exposure to a hot and humid climate coupled with little or no maintenance, the stained-glass panels were long overdue for conservation. Each window was in a different state of degradation and the condition mapping process assesed the degree of intervention required for each specific case. The clerestory windows had “Victorian patterned glass” that is no longer in production. This would have meant placing an order with a glass firm in the UK with specifications of biblical motifs on the original diamond-shaped glass and was not viable. Hence, after an intense research and development with a Mumbai-based glass company, an “embossed” replica of the patterned glass was made.
Indian and Global Collaborations: Considering the complex nature of the restoration project, the restoration process involved regular training and capacity building workshops. An Architectural Studio was established where regular research, training and workshops were conducted. Over the last two years, the Studio became a huge draw for field work, public lectures and school walkabouts. Experts from India and the UK were consulted consistently as each element of the Afghan Church required different specialised skills, IIT Chennai was consulted on the bowed west wall, the York Minster Centre of Excellence in Heritage Craft Skills and Estate Management advised on the stone damage, while Alfred Fisher, the world’s leading expert in stained glass advised on the complexities faced in restoring the stained glass.
Future Plans: Following its reopening, the Afghan Church will serve as a social venue for revival of a wide range of cultural activities. The Church will once again host public concerts, art shows, and other cultural events. The church grounds will also be utilized for community outreach programs, including health camps for local schools and the community. Encouraging local community investment in the church will play a vital role in transforming it into a key attraction in Mumbai. By reinstating its role as a vibrant cultural and community hub, the Afghan Church will once again contribute significantly to the city’s cultural landscape and its gothic heritage.
